Rumtek sits across the valley from Gangtok. We arranged a taxi to take us on a loop that would allow us to visit this Gompa/ monastery and another at Lingdum. The whole trip was very good value at around £30 as we were out for most of the day. The journey was beautiful, although the road was very rough in parts. The countryside was redolent of that around Hastings Country Park, although a lot more jungly. We passed by mossy hedgerows and through attractive villages with the occasional tantalising glimpse of the Himalayas peeking out from behind the clouds.

Our driver dropped us at the bottom of a steep path leading up to Rumtek monastery. It was adorned with prayer flags. There were armed guards at the entrance to the monastery. From what our driver told us and what I learned by consulting Wikipedia and Lonely Planet, this relates to a conflict called the Karmapa controversy. Two rival organisations supported a different candidate for the 17th Karmapa and claimed stewardship of the monastery, leading to fighting. The armed guards ensure that the conflict does not kick off again. Clearly, Buddhists are not always peaceful people. Historically, I believe that Buddhist monks have often been warriors.

Our visit to Rumtek was, however, very peaceful. On entering the monastery we immediately came across the beautifully decorated prayer hall. Filming and photography inside were not allowed, as is the case in most Buddhist Monasteries (which does not seem to impact most of the Indian tourists who visit; but we are British, bred to follow rules and avoid offence). The art on the outside gives only a partial idea of the riches that await within – intricate and highly coloured paintings illustrating the life of the Buddha.

While we were walking around the monastery a monk started to chat to us. He introduced himself as ‘Dharma Lhama’ and talked to us about the Buddhist religion and what it means to him. We also met a naughty group of baby monks who were playing with a water pistol. Dharma Lhama told us that the monks never give up on anybody. Tim reflected that maybe some of the kids in the UK might benefit from a monastery education. I believe that kids whose parents could possibly not afford to pay for education for them enter the monastery. It is considered an honour for the family if a son becomes a monk. Becoming a monk is not an all or nothing event. Often young men spend a few years of their lives as a monk before returning to civilian life.

On our way back down to meet our driver we visited a very pleasant cafe where we drank cappucinos and ate cheesecake. Two monks were also eating, drinking and playing games on their phones there, so the monastic life does not seem to be too restrictive. I believe that the Buddha taught a ‘middle way’ between asceticism and excess, which seems eminently sensible.

We headed on to Lingdum Monastery which seemed less set up for tourists and had more private areas. I was amused by the name given to the fast food cafe on the Monastery’s outskirts – ‘The Flying Monk’. I also spotted a group of baby monks watching cartoons in the cafe at the entrance to the monastery.

Young monks watching cartoons in the cafe at Lingdum Monastery

We returned to Gangtok for our evening meal, looking forward to one more day in town before heading off for Namchi.