We hired bikes for another outing on Ko Phayam. This time we headed straight for Aow Yao/ Long Beach where we had a swim and enjoyed the waves.

We decided to head over to a small cove, Aow Ko-Kyu, that we spotted on the map. It was a bit further than we expected, through a rubber plantation. In addition to tourism, the main industries on Ko Phayam are rubber and cashew nut plantations. The cashew nut trees are very poisonous to humans and cause a nasty rash if touched. Apparently they are related to poison ivy and mango trees, both of which can also cause skin reactions. When the cashews are harvested the locals have to wear wellies and long rubber gloves to protect themselves – not fun in the steamy Thai climate.

After quite a lot of uphill cycling we finally reached a small restaurant overlooking Aow Ko-Kyu. We stopped for some delicious noodles and admired the view from the deck. Then we scrambled down to the cove via a series of very steep and crumbling steps.

At the bottom of the steps we found not one but several small coves; they were beautiful in the late afternoon light and shade. The tide was in and it was quite rocky, so we didn’t swim this time.

After having a clamber on the rocks we returned to our bikes and headed back to the main town, where Ko Phayam Pier is. This took us up and down the highest hill on the island with good views in all directions from a couple of restaurants (although we decided to push on). Once we reached the highest point ( I have to admit I walked up that bit) it was an easy coast into Ko Phayam town. We then headed back to Hin Talu, the beach nearest Rabbit bungalows, where we are staying, for a swim.

We wandered down to Gypsy bar and watched the sun go down. Initially it was hiding behind blue grey clouds but as it slid towards the horizon it flashed out from below them in a lemon coloured burst.

We watched as a fisherman worked on his boat and dogs that had been sleeping in holes they had dug in the sand to keep themselves cool re- emerged and started to run madly up and down the beach. Mangrove bushes cast long dark shadows across stretches of damp sand that the sea had just receded from. The water of the bay reflected the sky in silver ripples. Slowly, gracefully the big yellow ball of sun sank below the horizon and the sky began to turn pink. Swallows were black shadows against the sky and the clouds, which had darkened to indigo.

I could hear laughter behind me at the bar and Tim appeared with a Leo beer. He has been chatting to an Irish /Italian couple in their seventies who met while travelling. Hope we’re still doing this at their age. A great end to a lovely day.

I’ve noticed that there are many people from Myanmar working here in Thailand. As usual refugees/ economic migrants like these are subject to exploitation, particularly in the tourism sector. There are probably many stories going on around me that I remain unaware of.

I read an interesting article about how Tokyo is changing in The Guardian by Dylan Levi King. He writes of Tokyo: ‘The future here as everywhere is human trafficking and budget tourism’ (Guardian long read 14/1/25). That is a depressing thought, but I don’t think it means that we should all stop travelling. I am so lucky to have had this opportunity. One thing that travel makes me grateful for is the security of a British passport, a safe home to bring up my kids, free education and healthcare and a reasonable income. Security and the ability to live, not just survive are what most people in the world want and what I usually take for granted. They are worth continuing to fight for.